Dear Friends,
We are back in Villefranche-sur-mer. We last left Villefranche on February 29, 2020, not because of COVID but because it was our scheduled departure. We finally returned last Saturday, October 2, 2021, 19 months later. I am very happy to report that this wonderful little town has survived the pandemic quite well all things considered. All of our friends, all of the shops and restaurants that we frequent and all of their employees have survived and are now open. There are of course even in this paradise anti-vaxxers, but in general the population went along with the stringent confinements imposed by the government. While in Minnesota, we closed the schools and kept the bars and restaurants open, here they kept the schools open by closing the bars and restaurants and otherwise greatly restricted the ability for the virus to spread. In addition, the businesses and employees were paid by the government to enable them to survive.
Now things are open, but with restrictions. In order to go to a restaurant, bar, concert, movie, etc. you must show proof of vaccination or a negative COVID test. Our CDC cards work, but I am happy to report that we have now received our pass sanitaire which is a QR code on our phones which proves our vaccinated status. The system works quite well. Before we got on the airplane in Minneapolis, we showed our CDC cards. We never had to show them again to be granted entry into France. When we have been asked for our pass sanitaire we have shown the CDC cards and have been admitted. It takes just a few extra seconds.
The rule is that you must be vaccinated to go to a restaurant, bar, etc. and that the establishment is to ask to see your pass sanitaire. We have only been asked to show our card at one place. The other places all knew us so did not ask. You do not need the pass sanitaire for stores. So you can shop without one, but you must wear a mask. In this little town that rule is generally followed, although there are a few people who wear their masks below their noses. We have not yet ventured into Nice so it may be different in a big city. All in all we feel quite safe here as the number of cases per population is dramatically less than in Minnesota and the rate of vaccination is higher.
So now to make you jealous. We arrived Saturday at about 1. It was 75 degrees, sunny and a nice breeze. We immediately donned our bathing suits and headed to the beach. On the way we stopped at a nice restaurant just at the beginning of the beach called l'Espuma for lunch. We sat outside, of course. Here is the view from our table.
For lunch I had a salad with ham, burrata and tomatoes. It was even better than it looks in the photo.
After our lunch we took a nice swim in the ocean before returning to our apartment to unpack and get ready for dinner. As it was our first evening, we had dinner at Le Serre, our favorite restaurant. We were as usual welcomed as old friends and enjoyed a wonderful pizza and salad.
We were a little late getting up on Sunday due to jet lag and went straight to the waterfront for a quick pain au chocolat, yogurt, jus de fruits and café.
But then it was time to get back to real life, such as it is in paradise. So we went to the butcher, the regular grocery, the baker and the green grocer to provision. Here is Jane with the green grocer. His stall is kind of a dugout so sort of outside. In this picture he is modeling the mask wearing method which we call "sous le nez" (under the nose) in this case in the extreme.
All of our shopping resulted in a wonderful dinner of steak, vegetables, potatoes, wine and dessert.
On Wednesday, we did not have our french lesson, so we decided to walk to the Villa et Jardins Ephrussi de Rothschild.
here
It sits on Saint-Jean-cap-Ferrat. If you look south from the villa across the gardens you see the Mediterranean all the way to Africa. If you look west, you see the bay of Villefranche, and if you look east you see the bay of Beaulieu. It is an incredible spot with a fascinating history. The gardens are different in every season but always beautiful.
We had lunch outside. Here is Jane at our table.
I had my favorite lunch, seared tuna with Chinese noodles.
It was followed by the raspberry meringue with fresh raspberries. Sorry in my haste to eat it, I forgot to take a photo.
Unfortunately, we had a sad experience last Tuesday. We walked to Beaulieu for lunch and some grocery shopping. We had lunch at our (formerly) favorite lunch place in Beaulieu. After finishing our very nice lunch, the owner who recognizes us as frequent visitors over the last several years came over to chat. We have chatted before but never about politics.
We were talking about how France handled the pandemic which led to our saying it was important for the government to take care of all the people as it had in France but unfortunately had not in the US. After telling us that he only cares about his family, he proceeded to say that all those people from the former French colonies in Africa come to France and take advantage of the system. He is Italian so he is an immigrant to France. In addition when he was 13 his family moved to NYC where he spent most of his childhood as an immigrant. He said that France was being taken over by these immigrants, obviously differentiating between immigrants like him who are white and immigrants from Africa who are black. He also said that the US was being destroyed by the Mexicans and that soon the US would be a bilingual country (like that would be a bad thing). His comments were amazingly straight forward and racist. We were appalled at him as well as at the fact that we didn’t immediately cut him off and leave.
Then it got worse as he gave us his philosophy about why he was not vaccinated. First, we were amazed that he could run a restaurant in France and not be vaccinate or even have a pass sanitaire. He claims he never gets sick so why get a vaccination and that his smoking probably helps to prevent him from getting COVID. His doctor who has not been vaccinated agrees with him. Obviously, the “you should get vaccinated for the good of others” argument was not going to work. Jane simply told him that she was a doctor, that his facts were wrong and that he should get vaccinated for himself and his family (he has a wife and three small kids-he is mid 60s). We wish we had been more forceful and immediately left. Unfortunately, we let shock and politeness stop us from doing what we should have done. He was taken aback when Jane told him he should get vaccinated and changed the subject.
To change the subject he told the story of the "immaculate reception". He was just 13 at the time, and he went to his first American football game, cheering for the Steelers. When Franco Harris made the amazing catch, the crowd went wild and thousands of Italian flags appeared. He was very pleased to see them. Then Franco took his helmet off so that it was clear that Franco was black. He said to himself, "what kind of Italians do they have here? I need to find another team." Neither Jane nor I have ever had a conversation with such an overtly racist person. What a sad and depressing experience.
Anyway, we need to find a new place for lunch in Beaulieu. It will be particularly difficult for me because after searching all of France, I determined that the best chocolat chaud is at the Gran Café.
Well it is time for our afternoon stroll by the sea.
Thanks for reading and please comment,
The Unabashed Liberal
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